Do games released by Sammy come under the purview of Sega Retro? For instance, Guilty Gear Petit on Wonderswan?
There are one or two odd Sammy games for the PlayStation 2, where they have Sega-published re-releases. Also I suspect we might be covering all the Atomiswave games because the hardware is Dreamcast-based (don't quote me on that - it was Andlabs who made the list IIRC). But as a rule, pre-merger Sammy stuff isn't within scope. Although things get tricky around 2003/2004-ish because I have a feeling Sega inherited IPs. I genuinely don't know what the situation is there.
IP inheritance doesn't mean an item is within scope--by comparison, I don't think anyone would argue that Company of Heroes is in scope. :X
Eggfan, you like rabbits with monacles. http://apps.sega-net.com/guide/puyoque/PuyoQuest_manu_LinkPDF_140423.pdf Apparently Professor Asobin has been turning up recently in Japanese manuals and promotional material or whatever. I've run into him once or twice accidentally - might be something for someone to look into.
I'm trying to see if my Mega CD Model 2 (European) have a bad laser or if it's just the CD-R I'm using are just crap. The burned games sometimes crashes, specially on FMVs. The original games I have right now are Final Fight and Sonic CD and they seem to work fine. But sometimes the music takes time to load in some moments, for example the Act/Zone end while in the past. (Sonic CD.) Is this normal (after all it's one of the first CD players on the marketing) Or the laser does have problems?
It could be a combination of old CD-ROM drive and low-quality media. Most modern CD-Rs aren't made to the same standards as older ones, especially CD-Rs manufactured by some cheaper companies like CMC. (Use a tool like ImgBurn to see who actually manufactured your CD-R.) Also, make sure you burn the CD-R using either CLV or CAV. Laptop drives typically use Z-CLV at higher speeds, which causes it to e.g. write at 2x for a while, then abruptly jump to 4x, then 8x. Those abrupt speed changes can confuse the Sega CD. CLV maintains a constant write speed throughout the write, while CAV increases the write speed slowly so it doesn't have the abrupt changes. I'd recommend burning at 4x for most desktop drives, and possibly lower for laptop drives or older desktop drives. That pretty much guarantees CLV writing.
Dreamcast reveal video: Sega New Challenge Conference, May 21st 1998, Tokyo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sz6AHlc-CfU
Hey guys, I just got a Mega Drive Model 1 (Pal) It works great on it's own and with a 32X, the problem is with a Mega CD 2, it doesn't boot it. The Mega CD 2 is working just fine with a MD Model 2 and a Model 2 + 32x. What's funny the Model 1 does boot the MCD with a 32x on it, so it might be some power problem. It also have problems with a Everdrive when everything is connected (Doesn't have any problem with the MD Model 2). So how can I fix it? Thanks.
Big-ish task for anyone who might get a kick out of this stuff: http://segaretro.org/E3_1995 Documenting every trade show Sega has turned up at, which as a side effect becomes "history of E3/TGS/CES/whatever". It's important as this is typically where companies announce things, yet the internet doesn't keep a good record of what has happened. Any takers?
We need to be careful to distinguish games that had playable demos, video demos, appeared as part of a video, or were merely announced/mentioned.
Dreamcast collectors or whatever: http://segaretro.org/File:R2RBR2_DC_EU_Disc_White_Beta.jpg http://segaretro.org/File:Grandia2_DC_EU_Disc_White_Beta.jpg "White label" PAL discs. What role do they actually serve and what do we do with ones specifically labeled "beta". The common description is "pre-production copies" but that could mean all sorts of things - some are clearly incomplete demos but some appear to be no-frills final versions. Do we have knowledge of which is which? Bearing in mind that demos and trials and whatever should be getting their own pages.
Posted this in the Other Knowledge topic (amongst Sonic material) but wouldn't harm to post it here too MD Virtua Racing proto shots:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Batman-Return-Of-Joker-Sega-Genesis-Megadrive-Japan-Retro-game-Cartridge-MINT-/201131356417 http://warnersretrocorner.com/product/batman-return-of-joker-sega-genesis-megadrive-japan-retro-game-cartridge-mint/ As far as I know this game didn't have a Japanese Mega Drive release? Is this a really convincing repro? Sunsoft games were always in smaller cases, this one is not. EDIT: Nevermind it is a re-pro that this shop is for some reason selling. Found the source: http://gameclub-serega.blogspot.co.uk/
I love how the wheels are square. Makes you wonder if this was running on stock Mega Drive hardware as opposed to SVP doodads.
On the subject of interesting prototypes: http://I.imgur.com/caKi6mH.jpg http://segaretro.org/File:DesertDemolition_MD_ES_PrintAdvert.jpg Desert Demolition, the messy Sonic-ish clone with Road Runner, looks as if it was completely re-worked after Summer CES 1993. Once upon a time it was more two dimensional, with loops and half-pipes and everything!
I've got a bit untypical dillemma, but have hope that someone will help in my doubts. To be honest, I've never had an opportunity to play on any Sega console. I was recently thinking about buying MegaDrive (and probably classic trilogy of Sonic too). But probably it would be connected with buying used console (and games), which probably won't be cheap. And here are my questions: 1.Some technical things - how is looking situation in case of vitality/durability of used consoles(gamepads and games)? Don't want to buy something, which will stop properly working after month or two. 2.I've noticed that people are also selling Megadrive II (16 Bit) - are games for Megadrive compatible with Megadrive II ? 3.Yes, I know that there is one advice for such doubts - "If you have some doubts in case of buying anything, you (probably) don't need it" :P But I'll ask anyway - is it worth of it to buying such thing, rather for "feel the climax" of playing in some classics, in "classic way"? Or I rather should be interested in some "copies" of this console (for example gear from AtGames - however, I've heard some not very flattering opinions about their consoles, at least stationary) and only buy original cartridges with games? Or maybe just look for some gamepads which are created in the image of original MD gamepads, plug it into PC (by the way - is there even such possibility?), play in some classics and forget about playing with "classic console thing"? 4.How is looking the situation in case of plugging this kind of console to the newer models of TV/monitors? (I must add, that I'm living in Poland - don't know if it has any meaning in case of plugs and sockets, but for being sure, I'm adding that info too). Some adapter and everything will be fine, or there can be some unpleasant issues? 5.And by the way - I know that (depending on regions) this console was also called Genesis. Are there any troubles in case of playing on "megadrive" with "genesis" games (and vice versa)? Thank you very much in advance for reading my questions and answers (have hope that my english is good enough to avoid some irritating (for the readers) mistakes)
Mega Drives are pretty resilient, I've rarely seen any that are actually dead. The II is just a redesign of the I, but the one to go for is the original High Definition Graphics model, as it has the best quality picture and sound. You'll want to pick up a Mega Drive 1 RGB SCART cable with stereo sound to make the most of it. The vanilla MD1 only outputs stereo sound out of the headphone jack at the front, so this cable uses that audio. Most TVs still have RGB SCART inputs, at least they do in the UK. I know in the US SCART never caught on, but it's a far superior way to play MD games over RF and composite. Of course if you don't care about AV quality and just want to play the games on real hardware, go with whatever. But having a good output and good cables goes a long way into making it look good on a HD TV. (RF is just going to look nasty as fuck). The only thing I can think of that is compatible with the MD1, but not the 2 (other than cables) is the Master System Converter (called the Power Base Converter in the US), although there was a revision in Europe which worked with either. It's rarer and generally more expensive though. I would recommend getting a Master System Converter to anyone who owns a Mega Drive/Genesis, as it effectively doubles your potential games library. Especially in Europe where titles are cheaper, more common and there are some exclusives. Also of note is that the MSC will use the clock speed of the Mega Drive underneath it (it's just an adapter, all the games are run by the Mega Drive), so if you've got a 50/60hz switch on your Mega Drive, your Master System games will also play in whatever speed you've set it to. A lot of early titles don't have any region lock, but later ones do, so it's always best to check before importing. If you have a little experience with electronics, you may consider modding your Mega Drive with a 50/60hz switch and a language switch to allow you to play nearly everything (in my experience, some titles still won't play). Many early games will be unoptimised for 50hz PAL frequencies, and as such music and gameplay will often be slower on European consoles. Japanese games are a different shape than the US/EU carts, so you will also need to widen the cartridge slot, which is a really piss easy mod (see here) Don't get an AT Games Mega Drive/Genesis. They fucking suck. The emulation's not great, not every game works, the pack in controllers suck, the AV quality is horrible and the sound is completely off. It's also generally cheaper to buy a second hand unboxed Mega Drive. If you want to just play emulated games on your PC, there are some controllers that suck, and some that don't. I was lucky enough to get one that didn't suck. I forget the specifics but there's a topic around here somewhere. I won't recommend an emulator, because I don't use them. If you feel like constructing the Tower of Power, and getting the 32X and/or Mega CD, bare in mind that you can't use the Master System Converter or play the MD version of Virtua Racing with the 32X plugged in, although the 32X has a superior (but still not arcade perfect) port of that game anyway. The Mega CD II is far more reliable than the tray loading model, but if you're using a model one MD with the model 2 MCD, you'll need to get the bottom bracket to stop it hanging over the edge. These can be hard to find. That's probably all I can think of for now, but anyway I should really get to work. Let me know if you have any further questions, or if I didn't make anything clear.
Whoa, now that's detailed answer! Thanks Caniad Bach! I'm even a bit surprised about existing some exclusive titles for Europe. By the way - is that true, that the whole Megadrive series never had some "eject" button/lever (like in Famicom/Pegasus, for example). I've heard (don't know, if its true), that the "force" method of putting out the cartridges shortens their resilience, but I don't have enough knowledge to confirm or deny it.
The only console I've ever seen with an Eject button is the original US version of the Super NES (though apparently the Famicom, EU SNES, and JP Super Famicom have it too). SNES/SFC model 2 doesn't have the Eject button. These buttons basically just push the plastic up, so it's effectively the same as pulling the cartridge out manually. There shouldn't really be a difference in the resilience between the systems (aside from the NES, with its craptacular ZIF connector).
