[mentski]

Meat Miracle, on 30 August 2013 - 06:23 PM, said:

The Megadrive outputs +5v and the RGB cables I have for it use that for RGB switching.

Hmm. I just had to add a sync stripper to the comp video line on the SCART end of a couple of MD cables I had to prevent jailbar effects, I swear blind the RGB pin wasn't connected to anything from the MD.

dsrb, on 30 August 2013 - 07:13 PM, said:

Devil's advocate here!

I bought two cables from this seller, hoping it would fix my aforementioned problems with my aforementioned NTSC-J Saturn. Both provided pictures with huge distorted bands emanating from any hard-edged shapes and other problems. This occurred on various TVs. I tried both cables on my PAL Saturn into multiple TVs and got all the same problems

I eventually got a refund, but not without retro_console_accessories basically telling me that had never happened to anyone else and so I must be doing something wrong.

Considering how I controlled my tests with two cables, two Saturns, two regions, and at least three TVs, I find it hard to believe all of those things of mine had the same problem(s), whereas their cables were innocent.

Of course, any enlightenment that might explain the whole thing - and make me look like a silly ass - would be welcomed, but at least for now, I thought it was worth recording that not everyone has had a flawless experience with their products.

I've only just bought A 32X raw sync cable from them that they claim work on EU Samsung LCDs (The raw sync cables I made worked on my Sony but not on the Sammy) I dearly hope they do live up to their rep and it's not all bullshit.

(Having said that after what Meat Miracle has just said to me, I'm starting to wonder if the reason they're not working on the Samsung is because the RGB select pin isn't getting voltage from the MD. Ho hum)

This post has been edited by mentski: 31 August 2013 - 01:10 AM

[Meat Miracle]

I use Retro Computer Shack RGB scart cables fro my md1 and 2, and they are well made enough that I have only minor audio noise and jailbars are limited to what the system outputs (I have modded my system to reduce it). No sync stripper. I think they use composite video for sync, not sure, I'd have to re-check.

I do have this long standing problem with the video jumping from center to left-bottom, I think the output filters need to be recapped, as it happens on any rgb cables I tried so far.

[dsrb]

I've bought an RGB SCART cable, main PSU, and spare disk drive PSU for my Amstrad CPC 464 and 6128 from Retro Computer Shack. All worked fine, aside from the fact that some TVs simply disagree with that type of signal.

To be clear, I'm not wanting to slander retro_console_accessories, but I can't fathom how the problem could have been caused by me and not their cables. As I said above, if anyone wants to school me and vindicate r_c_a, feel free.

[MarzSyndrome]

Welp. That RGB SCART cable I bought and acquired a day or two ago has proven to be no different than all the other SCART cables in my possession. Already asking for a refund.

If there's an easy dummies guide to modding a cable or the Saturn to make it not do monochrome or 'spasming' video on 50Hz displays then by all means let me know about it. (But first I'll really need to know how one opens up a SCART plug to check the wires and then put it back together again so that it isn't a lost cause.)

Otherwise I'll have to consider the more expensive option of buying that XRGB mini (and an adapter plug to go with it) and output my Saturn (and possibly all other consoles) through that instead - especially if it'll also allow me to reduce overscan and generally have full control over horiztonal and vertical sizing and positions.

[Meat Miracle]

To get 50hz colour in composite/s-vide out for a NTSC Saturn, you have to change the master clock (or install a secondary clock for the video board).

You are better off buying a PAL machine with a 50/60 switch and either a region free bios or a modchip, depending on whether you want to run originals or copies.

[MarzSyndrome]

Meat Miracle, on 31 August 2013 - 03:00 PM, said:

To get 50hz colour in composite/s-vide out for a NTSC Saturn, you have to change the master clock (or install a secondary clock for the video board).

And where is such a guide for changing the master clock anyhow?

Quote

You are better off buying a PAL machine with a 50/60 switch and either a region free bios or a modchip, depending on whether you want to run originals or copies.

I specifically got a Jap Saturn to make a change after being stuck with a not-100% chipped PAL Saturn for years before. I don't really fancy having two Saturns in future! XRGB it is, I guess.

[Meat Miracle]

... what do you mean not-100% chipped Saturn?

To change the master clock, remove the 14.318 MHz crystal oscillator marked as X1 on the board, replace it with a 17.7344 MHz one (not sure about the exact MHz but it should be PAL colorburst x4), and change around the JP1/2 jumpers. This effectively turns your machine into a PAL unit in everything but region settings.

Or, you know, hack off the a/v end of one of your third-party scart cables, and solder your own cable that uses the +5v line to lock onto RGB signal. In fact, I'm not sure the xrgb needs the RGB selection voltage, if it does you'll be none better off (other than owning a hardcore upscaler).

[MarzSyndrome]

Meat Miracle, on 31 August 2013 - 06:20 PM, said:

... what do you mean not-100% chipped Saturn?

Well okay, more like a "non-CDR-capable" Saturn. It could read original imports through the region switch, but nothing burnt.

[Meat Miracle]

If you are okay with burning regionmodded cdrs or using an action replay, I can sell you a chipped + 50/60 switch equipped PAL Saturn for 105£.

Not sure if I could include a region switch too, it would at the very least need a hole cut in the case, and I don't know if I have any spare multi-state switches.

[Shadow Hog]

dsrb, on 30 August 2013 - 07:13 PM, said:

Shadow Hog, on 29 August 2013 - 12:15 AM, said:

People I know who are hellbent on getting the best quality video out of their old gaming consoles swear by the SCART cables from retro_console_accessories on eBay, I find. She also says she can wire them up for JP21 at no additional charge.

Devil's advocate here!

I bought two cables from this seller, hoping it would fix my aforementioned problems with my aforementioned NTSC-J Saturn. Both provided pictures with huge distorted bands emanating from any hard-edged shapes and other problems. This occurred on various TVs. I tried both cables on my PAL Saturn into multiple TVs and got all the same problems

I eventually got a refund, but not without retro_console_accessories basically telling me that had never happened to anyone else and so I must be doing something wrong.

Considering how I controlled my tests with two cables, two Saturns, two regions, and at least three TVs, I find it hard to believe all of those things of mine had the same problem(s), whereas their cables were innocent.

Of course, any enlightenment that might explain the whole thing - and make me look like a silly ass - would be welcomed, but at least for now, I thought it was worth recording that not everyone has had a flawless experience with their products.

Dunno. I'm only just coming across this post today, coincidentally the same day I come across this post on NeoGAF:

Quote

Her cables are usually high quality, but I got burnt by her a couple times. First she sold me an unshielded cable. Then she sent me a cable that was impossible to rewire for pure sync because she fills the insides with glue.

This guy is great though. His cables are as high quality and they aren't filled with glue:
http://www.retrogamingcables.com/
Slightly more expensive, especially with shipping, but worth it.
He also doesn't run out of stock as much and responds to your emails.

So, well, she's not flawless.

Glad I'm hearing about all of this before I start going RGB crazy, though.

[Meat Miracle]

Quote

His cables are as high quality and they aren't filled with glue:

The glue prevents the cables from being torn off in the inside when you yank out the cable from the console. In as much as makes it less likely that the cable is damaged, anyway.

Also the Saturn cables say they are PAL only, haha.

[mentski]

The cables I currently have are all from retrogamingcables, but annoyingly he doesn't sell regular MD cables with sync stripper/booster circuits. I say regular because at one point he was selling one with gold plugs and an over-the-top chunky screened cable for over 30 quid, but only a MD1 version, so I've been stuck with ugly-arsed jalbars on my MD1/MCD1/32X setup, which obviously needs an MD2 cable.

(That and I'll be needing a pure sync cable for when I finally can afford an XRGB Framemeister)

This post has been edited by mentski: 06 September 2013 - 05:24 PM

[dsrb]

Meat Miracle, on 05 September 2013 - 05:39 PM, said:

Also the Saturn cables say they are PAL only, haha.

From retro_console_accessories? No. I specifically bought one that was advertised as being for NTSC Saturns. Besides, it didn't work on that or PAL.

Edit: Bah, you were probably talking about the other seller who was linked below your quote. Oh well, this will clarify things either way.

This post has been edited by dsrb: 06 September 2013 - 06:02 PM

[Meat Miracle]

mentski, on 06 September 2013 - 05:23 PM, said:

The cables I currently have are all from retrogamingcables, but annoyingly he doesn't sell regular MD cables with sync stripper/booster circuits. I say regular because at one point he was selling one with gold plugs and an over-the-top chunky screened cable for over 30 quid, but only a MD1 version, so I've been stuck with ugly-arsed jalbars on my MD1/MCD1/32X setup, which obviously needs an MD2 cable.

(That and I'll be needing a pure sync cable for when I finally can afford an XRGB Framemeister)

I've been told the Framemeister can run with normal composite unlike the older XRGB models.
And to remove the MD1 jailbars you need a hardware mod; good cables will only help a little.

[mentski]

Meat Miracle, on 06 September 2013 - 06:02 PM, said:

I've been told the Framemeister can run with normal composite unlike the older XRGB models.

The fact that I've seen several SCART-XRGB mini adapters with sync stripper circuits installed tells me otherwise.

Meat Miracle, on 06 September 2013 - 06:02 PM, said:

And to remove the MD1 jailbars you need a hardware mod; good cables will only help a little.

From everything I've read on this on assemblergames and Sega-16, the jailbars from an RGB signal come sfrom the colourburst on the comp video signal which is bleeding into the RGB signal. If it's the mod I think you're talking about removes the subcarrier information from the composite video signal so it can still be used for sync but removes the "bleed". Theoretically using a pure sync signal instead will do exactly the same job, but of course some TVs don't like using csync instead of comp video, or need the sync signal significantly boosted (which apparently this new cable I've ordered does).

I've seen a lot of evidence that using csync instead of comp video removes jailbars via RGB entirely, but we'll see. I did fit a sync stripper to one of my cables but it only worked in a Sony CRT I had that didn't show jailbars in the first place, on my Samsung LCD I got a blank screen, which is apparently an issue that this advertised cable fixes.

This post has been edited by mentski: 07 September 2013 - 07:25 AM